In Sydney, my father was feeling the weight of his years. His back protested, and his legs weren’t as steady as they used to be. “I should bring my grandchildren to China,” he mused, “so they can explore the ancestral villages and meet our extensive clan of relatives.”

We reached Taishan on a glorious sunny day. Taishan, nestled in the province of Guangdong, Southern China, holds a special place in our hearts. Our aunt, along with my cousins and their families, has made it their home. While farming has become scarce in recent times, the villagers lead a humble life, with most relying on their family members who have ventured into the bustling big cities for work.

Initially, we found ourselves a bit disoriented. However, a boisterous and welcoming woman near the rice fields kindly dialled one of our cousins and then gestured toward a pathway winding through the vibrant green rice fields. In these tight-knit communities, it seemed like everyone knew each other.

The villages captivated us with their picturesque charm, featuring verdant rice paddocks bordered by meandering streams. The quaint houses, adorned with fading white-washed walls, added to the rustic allure of the surroundings.

Our aunt and cousins eagerly awaited our arrival just outside the village. Beneath the shade of the fig trees, Auntie whipped up a mouthwatering lunch for us. The villagers, drawn by the delicious aroma, congregated around, joining in as we enjoyed our meal, sharing stories, laughter, and good times together.

My young son kept himself occupied with the curious challenge of attempting to break a sizable block of ice using a “head chopper” knife and mastering the art of drawing water from a traditional well.

Following our hearty meal, we strolled towards our aunt’s home, traversing narrow laneways flanked by quaint houses constructed from a mosaic of blue and grey bricks. Along the way, I couldn’t help but be captivated by the doors that adorned these homes, each one exuding a lively and vivid burst of colours.

The enormous block of ice had a unique purpose—it was destined for a 2-year-old girl’s “shaving party” scheduled for that evening. This custom stemmed from the tradition of hosting a grand feast for a one-month-old’s birthday. But if, for some reason, the child missed the one-month celebration, it was substituted with a joyous “shaving party” when the child reached their second year. This event drew the entire village, making it a grand community affair.

To nourish the entire village during the festivities beneath the splendid fig trees, a group of men diligently toiled, orchestrating a grand feast. They employed the humblest of cooking tools and utensils, all well-worn and bearing the rustic charm of countless culinary endeavours.

We made our way to several homes and indulged in their homemade, traditional snacks, savouring a delightful array of sweet and savoury dumplings.

It’s been more than 35 years since I last saw my aunt and cousins, yet the memories of our shared modesty remain crystal clear. Back in my teenage years, I spent a summer holiday with them, and we foraged for frogs, clams, and snails to supplement our meagre food supply, especially for us kids with ravenous appetites.

Life in those days was undeniably tough. I can vividly remember my uncle, who has since passed away, as a slender man, his back bent from relentless toil. He would laboriously transport a hefty load of organic (human) fertilizer to the fields, relying solely on a bamboo pole and two weathered wooden buckets.

Nowadays, my eldest cousin, Zhong, has become a skilled mechanic. He roams across China, accompanied by his son, to service and mend machinery. They reside in a newly constructed, roomy, and contemporary house. My second cousin, Yuan, found love with a dim sum chef, and they have a delightful teenage daughter. These two are genuinely warm-hearted individuals who graciously welcomed us into both their homes and their hearts.

With fond hearts, we said our goodbyes to my dear aunt, cousins, and their families, filled with the anticipation of reuniting in the very near future.